"Cape York has been nothing short of mind-blowing"
The Ultimate Guide on CAPE YORK designed to help you get the best of Cape York.
The Best of Cape York
We’re back with another update and perhaps the most awaited one yet. We finally took a trip to Cape York! This Australian peninsula is one of the most underrated places in Australia but unfortunately also the least spoken about. Well, we’re here to break that chain and hope that our trip to Cape York is what gathers the attention it needs! To be honest with you, while our trip to Cape York has been nothing short of mind-blowing, our trip was 3 weeks long and we still feel as if there’s a lot left unexplored.
The PDR known for ruthless corrugations:
What to Prepare:
Since we were heading to Cape York for the first time, we made sure we were prepared. From chatting it up with friends who’d already been there to googling all the way through, we really tried to get our hands on as much information as we could. We literally did anything that would be helpful, including driving really carefully because we’d invested a lot of money into our setup it's our fulltime home, and nobody likes throwing money down the drain. Thankfully, it paid off well; our trip was smoother than ever, and we didn’t face any hurdles.
Cape York has a lot of corrugation, so you have to be alert all the time to ensure smooth sailing. We advise doing a regular check-up on your setup if you’re driving there.
CAR | VAN |
Car Serviced in Cairns | Air pressure gauge for tyres |
Spare air filters and for us we purchased teraine tame seal for air box | Shut grey water valve |
Air Conditioner on Fresh | Double check everything is put away and all latches are closed |
2 x Foam Air filters for the snorkel | Stone Stomper |
Check for any bolts that need tightening | Air Compressor |
Installed catch can Fuel filter | Bunnings for pipe insulation lagging to cover pipes from potential stone damage |
Spare fuses | Seal all Drain plugs (don’t forget the shower) |
Our Cape York Adventure
"Now that you’re up to speed on our preparations, here is how our majestic adventure went"
Cairns to Cooktown
We set off toward Cooktown from Cairns and made sure to hit up some of the “hot” spots.
Cooktown Holiday Park
One of these was the Cooktown Holiday Park, a beautiful place Cooktown for it's mind-blowing scenery consisting of cascading waterfalls, mighty mountains and a sky that would put half the world into shame. We really liked the hosts too; they were very accommodating people who were willing to share lots information at arrival to make our stay amazing.
If you have kids make sure you head down to the esplanade in town the new kids splash park is fantastic and has really clean facilities.
Black Mountains
After catching a few glimpses of the Cooktown Holiday Park, we doubled back to the Black Mountains and wow guys, I might have just found my new aesthetic.
Black Mountains is a protected area that’s visible clear as day (and dark as night) in its all-black glory; the group of black boulders really created a stunning sight.
Lion’s Den
We then headed to Lion’s Den, an Australian story that deserves a blog of its own; though I must add that the pub was a refreshing stop. I think it’s perfect to stretch your legs and cool off in the heat. Although, for some time I was of the belief it too was a corrugated rough stretch of road leading to the famous pub however I was pleasantly surprised to enjoy the black tar all the way with a tropical landscape far from what id imagined in my mind.
Bloomfield Falls
Following the black tar, we eventually reached Bloomfield Falls, and I must add that while you might have seen a lot of waterfalls don’t miss this one although you cant swim due to the snapping handbags, (crocodiles) its still a great photographic spot of the falls.
The walk isn’t far from the car park just be mindful of unstable rocks under your feet
Cooktown Museum
The Cooktown Museum was our favorite little addition (I think we’re becoming history nerds slowly) because we heard lots of amazing stories and would definitely recommend the place. The museum has all sorts of memories guests can walk through such as the first recorded act of reconciliation between the local indigenous people, the Bama, and Lt. James Cook and if you’re a sucker for culture and history check out the collection of local Guugu Yimithiir artefacts and the original anchor and canon from HMB Endeavour that were salvaged in the 1970s, this is one spot you can’t miss.
Isabella Falls
Like any other place in Australia, Cape York is filled with natural blessings like rivers and waterfalls, so to no surprise we ended up at Isabella Falls, a very scenic and minimalist spot. It has a very light and relaxing vibe but the one which would make you happier the more time you spend there. Isabella Falls also reminded me a little of that one quaint place you’d spot in the background of a children's movie but maybe that’s simply because the falls are so cute.
Elim Beach
Elim Beach is a soft little spot tucked away not far from Cooktown and is great for private camping or trips, but you need a permit to visit the beach. We got ours for $10 and happily headed off to drive the beach but we learnt that you’ll really have to be careful with the tides before beach driving the evidence of not watching stares you straight in the face on entry were someone wasn’t so lucky. The sand is also really coloured here and there, so it creates a gorgeous sight naturally.
Archer Point Lighthouse
I’ll be honest here, I’m a little torn on Archer Point Lighthouse. While we got mind-blowing views of the coast, it was extremely windy. If you’ve got little kids, you’ll probably want a few warm layers, but it’s a great point with amazing views!
When we headed from Cooktown, road were really bad for corrugations, but the roads near the lighthouse were under construction so you’ll probably have an easier time.
Cooktown to Hann River
On your way to Laura, Battlecamp road, you’ll find the most brutal corrugations ever. We definitely did and they were the worst we faced the entire journey. After a lot of bumps and stops, we successfully reached Old Laura Homestead, an amazing site with a fascinating story. This heritage site overlooks the stunning Laura River and while it may not look that impressive from outside, it’s a great access to the Rinyirru National Park.
Hann River to Archer River
Boy, did we change into our swimming suits fast! It was a relief getting to wash off the heat in the cool water and we were lucky that it was safe for kids too. Just grab a paddle or if you’d like, stay up the hill at the road-house. While it was refreshing, there’s one thing that isn’t in Cape York and that’s the internet. Unfortunately, because most of the area is still a little rugged, you won’t find a stable WiFi. We did buy it for $5 but it really didn’t do much other than let you browse the internet..Don't expect to download anything!
Archer River to Weipa
At Weipa, we stayed at the Weipa Camping Ground as it’s the only caravan park there. Thankfully, it wasn’t very rustic; there was a Woollies where we could stock up on fresh fruit and veg, groceries and we grabbed a lot because you won’t find a supermarket in sight unless you’re heading back to Cairns.
Of course, this depends on what route you’re taking but I’d really advise not to take the risk if heading further north.
Weipa to Bramwell Station
A surprising sight along the way, are the massive termite hills its definitely something you should check out.
This is also where you should refuel because the promise of fuel is several miles ahead. At this point you can either take the turn off to the famous Tele Track or take the PDR (Peninsula Developmental Road) to Bamaga. We took the PDR.
Bramwell Station to Seisia
A cute little coastal town, Seisia was our next destination but to reach there, we had to cross the Jardine River. It was a little hectic and we have to warn other long-van drivers to be extremely careful. The path we advise to take so you have clearance is to keep at an angle that gives your setup enough clearance while driving onto the ferry, otherwise you’ll damage the back of the van. We did too, but we only bent the bracket that holds the boat trailer wheels onto the van.
We did hear about a lot of stories of others who came off with worse damage than we did, so caution is advised every step of the way.
Thursday Island
Thursday Island is a gorgeous, quaint section of an archipelago and is home to wonderful Indigenous communities of Australia. The island has a strong cultural significance, so we made sure to hit a few spots along the way. We booked the Peddells Thursday Island Tours which really gave us an interesting tour. It included the Green Hill Fort Underground Military Maritime Museum, a heritage fortification that gives you a stunning insight into history.
The Pearlshell Divers Memorial is a multi cultural (mostly Japanese) cemetery where divers are buried. After we were done with this slightly sober trip, we strolled around the island, exploring local shops and restaurants. We then enjoyed a relaxing lunch at Australia’s most northern pub.
The Tip
The Tip is a dirt drive from Seisia which is a gorgeous spot. It was perhaps one of our most favorite places in Cape York. While there are a few caravan parks, the Seisia Caravan Park was the only one with water, so we chose that (we were advised that Punsand Bay caravan park doesn’t have water but trust me, after that trip to the Tip, you’ll need an hour’s worth of washing after at least). To drive to the actual tip, you’ll have to drop off your van as the path is extremely narrow. It’s also extremely windy so ensure your hat is secure.
While the trip to the Tip was an extremely tiring journey, its definitely rewarded with lots of picturesque points. I suggest you take a tripod and take photos because it’s not a journey you could be making frequently. We managed to do the journey twice which gave us a chance to take back the tripod and get those forever photos. Also we did get to try out both walking tracks, but the beach stroll becomes a little difficult if the tide is in.
At the Tip, you’ll find the Top Walk, the track to the car park and it’s marked by stone. The track isn’t difficult, but it can be slightly tricky if you’re not paying attention; remember to wear closed shoes so you don’t accidentally injure yourself.
Now, you might think that this place sounds a bit too challenging, but the Tip was one of the most emotionally powerful places I’ve ever been. I don’t know whether it was the achievement of reaching such a place or something else, but it sure moved me.
Activity: Fishing
We had the privilege to join the locals on a fishing trip (that is only given by invitation)
Experiencing The Peninsula via sea certainly gives you another element to your journey; there were breath-taking views and we had fresh fish to take home, so we were truly happy. And the fun of fishing was something that was a thrill alone; all of a sudden tuna jumping out of the water everywhere; it was an adrenaline rush even a mountain couldn’t bring.
The kids watched green turtles mating in their natural habitat which was a little embarrassing but a once-in-a-lifetime experience to have. We also learnt that green turtles are often eaten by the locals but flat backs are poisonous.
Jardine River
Once more crossing the river, we pulled up for lunch at Jardine’s mouth; and while most were having fun, we’d spotted a 3m croc casually laying in the sun, so we didn’t want to be the daring type and thought it better to grab the kids and make a quick run from the boat for the shore.
Way Back: Cape York
For our return, we’d saved a few places like the Fruit Bat Falls, a stunning, scenic waterfall, cool and refreshing water to wash ourselves off (the red dirt called the bulldust surely leaves no target!). And I’m still shocked that in such rugged dry terrain, you’d find a pristine cool oasis, pooling in tranquillity among rocks. We then hit up the Moreton Telegraph Station, the lush green oasis which certainly did wonders for our red-dust sore eyes. The kids busied themselves with games, so we took a calm walk at night and made dinner.
There’s a little cafe which has some basics too. Make sure you stroll down to the river to throw a rod in the “Barra hole” Wenlock river.
Promising as ever, Laura was a magical place to visit. It does have an incline but if you’re athletic enough to get the kids up (which parent isn’t), it’s certainly do-able with the kids. Laura also had Split Rock Art Quinkans Spirit Being Figures, believed to be between 15,000 and 40,000 old and listed by UNESCO as being among the top 10 rock art sites in the world.
It was a stunning display that keeps replaying itself in my memory. We also ticked off Palmer River Roadhouse, which had a small museum detailing local history. It’s also where we refuelled and spent the night. I was glad to see clean and basic amenities!
At Mareeba, don’t forget to visit Coffee Works, where you can rest for a bit and munch on warm cafe lunches. We also got our vehicle cleaned from Mareeba’s fantastic Automobile wash with side ladders so you can do the roof of your van and believe me there’s red dirt in every nook and cranny you can think of. It cost us around $100 collectively, which was no surprise really.
Lastly, Cairns Coconut. The place which ended our journey yet added so much more. A great caravan park to come back to and clean up. We had our car serviced on our return; after all that dust and shaking on corrugation we thought for the safety of our family and peace of mind it was well worth it. We also had the car detailed by the wonderful Andy at Smart Pro detailing returning our car to that new bright shiny look it had before The Cape.
Overall, Cape York has been an exhausting but every-minute-worth-it trip. I’d totally go back there again, with plans to hit different spots each time because the peninsula has so much to offer. Just remember that it’s still under work, so be patient and you’ll find a pleasant journey ahead!
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